Imagine – through no fault of your own, you lose your home, income, and life savings overnight. Then, you find out that your husband has a rare illness with no cure. That was the plight of Raynor Winn, author of The Salt Path.
In this incredible true story, Raynor and her husband, Moth, brave the elements and the unknown to find a sense of purpose. Instead of waiting for a council house, they head for the South West Coast Path, carrying their new home, a £38 tent, on their backs.
They’re left with only one question: ‘What have we got to lose?’
‘The worst thing that could possibly happen had happened.’
The South West Coast Path is England’s longest waymarked footpath: 630 miles of gorgeous, and at times, grueling, terrain.
Instead of affording plush hotels or glamping sites, they wild camp. They bathe in the sea, take showers where they can. Sometimes they have to decide between buying food or a ferry crossing. Living off a meagre diet of shop-bought tuna and noodles, they also forage, stewing bladderwrack and tasting the naturally-salted blackberries.
This book is a true testament to the healing power of fresh air and exercise in nature.
Raynor is aghast at how Moth’s illness appears to almost disappear. At the offset of their venture, there were moments of debilitating pain, struggling to move. But by putting one foot in front of the other, up the steep highs and lows of the coast path, Moth appears to reverse his condition, almost returning to a normal state.
The coast path gave them a sense of purpose, allowed them to move forwards, live in the moment.
Through Raynor’s account, we’re made privy to a world that most of us know very little about – the life of the homeless.
‘Our path was passing through a different country to theirs.’
When conversing with fellow backpackers, the subject of their homelessness became a difficult topic to breach. Often, people would quickly make their excuses and walk away. Others were unfazed, and welcomed their companionship. Some were inspired – an old couple exploring and living in the elements.
Nonetheless, connecting with strangers and nature becomes a welcome escape.
In the face of true adversity, Raynor and Moth’s loyalty to each other never wanes. They’re in this together. Raynor’s narrative takes a positive outlook, but certainly doesn’t shy away from the moments of anxiety, despair, or fear.
‘Where Daphne du Maurier was a tenant and dreamt of Manderley, we lay homeless and penniless under the stars.’
At times, Raynor is wracked with guilt and doubt – worrying about Moth’s condition and their children, who were at university. Perhaps the great hike along the coast path was a bad idea after all.
There is also humour, absurd occurrences that could only happen on such a spontaneous, life-changing adventure.
This beautiful account captures the glory of the coastline. From Devon and Dorset, to beloved Cornwall, some of England’s most revered coastal landscapes are poetically captured. Fascinating details, sights and encounters are woven into the travelogue.
Raynor reminds us of the endless wonders to be found in nature. Jaw-dropping cliff faces, gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, waves, birds, fish, quaint seaside towns and villages. Of course, it’s not all picture-postcard scenes. Raynor and Moth walk the path in all weathers, including strong winds, torrential rain, and baking hot sun that burns the skin.
Throw being homeless into the mix, and they encounter judgmental members of the public, consistent hunger, and fears of the tent (their home) disappearing in a gale.
The book points to the frailty of life. Life can fall into place, but it can also fall apart. But, from Raynor’s viewpoint, there is always the chance of hope and healing.
‘The shock of something going right is almost as powerful as when it goes wrong.’
When they reach Polruan, a small fishing village opposite Fowey, Raynor receives a call from an old friend with an offer they can’t refuse.
Heading north, and with a roof over their head for the first time in months, they soon realise that the life of the coast path has gripped them, body and soul. Raynor and Moth gladly head back to the path. The uncertainty, a worry, but the freedom and health benefits of walking the path, a relief.
Raynor and Moth even adopt a new adjective – ‘salted’, meaning you’ve become one with the landscape of the coast. It’s a spiritual perspective that the South West corner of England has to offer all those who venture there – especially Cornwall.
The edition pictured above was published by Penguin Books 2019.
Emma's Travels With Books 